As promised, the weather cleared but was much colder with highs in the mid-50's. Our plan for the day -- the third King Ludwig II castle and then to our friend, Edi, by late afternoon.
Neuschwanstein is, of course, the most well-known of the three castles Ludwig II built. Like Herrenchiemsee, it was not completed before his death at age 40. It was here at Neuschwanstein in his bedroom that he was advised by messengers from Munich that he had been declared mentally ill and unfit to lead Bavaria. He was taken that day to a sanitarium close into Munich - and there on the very next morning, they discovered both his body and that of his psychiatrist drown in the lake at the sanitarium. No one was ever able to determine whether it was murder, suicide or an accident.
Unfortunately, the German Public Parks has an extensive cleaning and maintenance activity going on at the castle, so it has been shrouded in scaffolding since the beginning of 2011 and is due to be completed by the end of this year. Here is a picture from where we started to hike up to the castle, which was about 1 1/2 miles up hill. There are buses and horse carriages that can take you about 2/3 of the way up, but we decided the walk was exactly what we needed!
As with all the castles, photography is not allowed inside the castle, but you can see that one side of the castle has been completed and the scaffolding removed. The tour actually took almost an hour as we went room after room of unbelieveable construction, here in wood where one room alone had taken 14 wood carvers almost four years to complete! And all this for a King that actually spent only 172 days in the castle in total.
We left Neuschwanstein, Bavaria and Germany behind and headed south to Switzerland. We stopped in Lindau for a late lunch and a search for internet connection to get Edi's address for our beloved GPS.
We arrived at 1715 CET and it was so wonderful to see our friend, Edi! We are all amazed at how time has flown since our last visit here - now almost 15 years ago. We spent the evening visiting and dining on fabulous goulash! Of course, the fourth seat at the table was a memory of our last trip, when Marian was still with us before breast cancer took her in 2005.
The view from Eduard's apartment in central Buchs. The sun on the top of the Alps was spectaculsr!
Saturday dawned early with a drive high into the Alps to the town of Urnasch in the Appenzellar Region, where the annual return of the cows (and goats) to their owners after a summer in the high pastures was occurring. The farmers send their herds up the Alps to fresh pasture, while they plant then harvest grass and hay for the coming winter. Shepherds and cheese makers take care of the animals for the summer, bringing the milk and cheese down the Alps for sale into the local markets. The animals' return is a celebration for all!
As we arrived in Urnasch, the first herd was coming down the mountain - traffic was forced off the road as the cows and goats take priority!
Here is the lead shepherd, with goats and other small shepherds behind.
As we were on the hillside rather than into the village, we had an up close and personal contact with the cows!
Here is a view up the Alps from whence the cows and goats come!
After this group continued past us, we hopped in the car again and drove into the village. We walked around the festival booths with very fine goodies and crafts.
As well, a man was playing the Alpenhorn. I actually saw a lady the following day on the side of the mountain playing her horn, but we were traveling and unable to stop.
The next group then started through the village - note the little shepherd girl with her branch to get the goats' attention!
Then came an Alpen shepherd lady with the lead cow - denoted by the large bell around the neck.
Following the lead cow appears to be another small group with large bells, followed by the singing/chanting shepherds.
At the end of each group of cows is the cheese cart, in this case carrying not cheese but all the implements that were taken up the mountain to make the cheese.
The crowds simply continued to roll in and we decided to take our leave. We headed across country on an Edi-Adventure. This time to take us to the Klinik in the village of Gais where he had his recovery from heart surgery (aorta valve replacement) a year ago last June.
The clinic was absolutely delightful with cheerful artwork all around - and the food was so good that Edi chose that location for us to have a lovely lunch! The wurst salad was accompanied by a delightful glass of Swiss Red wine! Edi and Bill each enjoyed a draft beer - yes, at a rehab center!
From there, we went down to the Bodensee (Lake Constance), where we stopped several places for views and coffees and beers! First in Rohrschau and then in Bad Horn.
Both the financial and medical systems in Switzerland are very interesting -- everyone pays taxes (yes, everyone) and everyone must have health insurance. These are private insurance companies that pay private hospitals and cllinics to perform the necessary medical attention. One major difference from our US approach appears to be the lack of demand for increased profitability of every element of the system, such that fees are reasonable and affordable to all. In a similar vein, Edi and Marion moved into their apartment in 1993 - and the rent has never been increased. The landlord is an insurance company and they have said -- good tenants so no rent increase!
The clinic was absolutely delightful with cheerful artwork all around - and the food was so good that Edi chose that location for us to have a lovely lunch! The wurst salad was accompanied by a delightful glass of Swiss Red wine! Edi and Bill each enjoyed a draft beer - yes, at a rehab center!
From there, we went down to the Bodensee (Lake Constance), where we stopped several places for views and coffees and beers! First in Rohrschau and then in Bad Horn.
It was a wonderful day!! From there, we headed home for a rest and dinner at a local restaurant.
Sunday morning, we set out early for a hike up the hills (~2 1/2 miles) that surround Buchs - Bill and I could certainly tell we weren't at sea level!
You can see the city below from whence we came!
This is another view of the city -- the steam rising from the facility in the city is actually where they burn all the trash and garbage. The heat from this facility provides all the hot water for the entire city!!
Our hike took us up and behind the castle, so that on our walk down, we walked around the castle and through the old city.
Here is a view of the castle overlooking the little lake.
This is an aerial view of the old part of the city with the castle on the hillside, the vineyards on the hill and the lake at the foot (bottom left).
After a stop at a local place for breakfast (coffee and bread), we grabbed the car and headed out for another Edi-Adventure. We went into Leichtenstein to his office to see where he works and also to get some papers. From there, we were off into the countryside through many villages as we went up the Swiss Alps.
We arrived in Maienfeld and Heidiland! Yes, the beloved story from my childhood by Jahanna Spryi was there before me!
We had a beer at the Heidi Hotel -- then Bill and I headed off for the walk to Dorfli!
We walked through the museum which was purportedly a close representation to the Alm Uncle's house. We did not take the hike up the Alps to Heidi's and Peter's (the shepherd) homes, as it was to be 1 1/2 hours each way and we didn't want to keep Edi waiting.
Back in the car, we headed up again -- all the way across the pass over the Alps. Where, of course, we needed to stop for some refreshments!
You can see that we are above the tree line - this is Fuelapass at a height of 2393 meters (7000 ft).
Over the pass we went -- and then caught the car train for the return trip back through the mountain of 18 km (~13 miles) that took about 20 minutes! It is amazing! This was built so that traffic going up the mountain for skiing and resorts would not have to disrupt the villages of Kloster and Davos. Kloster is where the English Royalty enjoy their skiiing -- and Davos is the sight of the World Economic Summit each year.
After we got off the train, Edi took us to Klosters -- here is the hotel (chalets behind) where Charlie and family stay (that's Prince Charles, of course)
This was the site for another stop for refreshments -- such a gentle way to see the country!
Back into the car - a stop at Marche along the motorway for dinner (some truck stop!) and then home for the evening.
Monday dawned with Edi headed for work -- at 79, he continues to work full-time for Mechel (Russian steel & coal company) as head of worldwide transportation insurance. It is what feeds him now -- both the social aspects it provides as well as mental stimulation and being needed. While Edi worked the morning, we did the laundry and repacked for the remainder of the trip. After a quick bit in the center of town, we returned shortly before Edi got home -- and we headed for the Basel, Germany, which was about 2 1/2 hour drive.
Basel is a most international city as it is on the border of Switzerland with both Germany and France. Home to many chemical plants and chemical technology, it has much to offer. First, we went to a small suburb known as Dornach, which is the home for Goetheanum.
Founded by Richard Steiger (~1850-1925), it is a most interesting group of people for which I must do research in the weeks to come. A combination of spiritual self-awareness and view of the world - combined with interesting architecture and expression.
We then traveled to the closely-village of Rheinach, where Edi showed us where he was born -- the upper left window of this building, which is now a museum (not because of Edi!)
The family did not live in the museum building long, but moved to this house, where he lived until he left Switzerland at age 21. He did not return to live there until he was in his early 60's.
We then took a walking tour of downtown Basel, with cathedrals and museums abounding. As you can see, it was getting dark, so pictures are limited, but we had a great time walking for a couple of hours. We settled on a delightful Italian restaurant, had a lovely evening and headed for the hotel.
Off to Heidelberg tomorrow!
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