Thursday, September 13, 2012

Day #8 - Linderhof & Oberammergau

After our post last evening, we chose to remain in the hotel for dinner.  It's a lovely hotel and quite cozy & warm - and the thought of walking in the cold rain or driving again made the choice very easy!

So, down we went to the tavern - which we found absolutely charming and we had it completely to ourselves for the entire evening!   There was a large group in a separate banquet room, so we had focused service and a phenominal evening!



 
We absolutely loved the bar -- with handles to keep you safe!!
 
As in Salzburg, the city bells chime at the quarter (once), half (twice), three-quarter (three) and on the hour (four), which is then followed at the top of the hour with a differently toned chime for the time of the hour.  Here in Partenkirschen, the chimes are about a block from our hotel, so we heard them many times during the night!
 

 
The rain had subsided considerably, but there was forecast for showers in the morning and steady rain in the afternoon.  So, we headed out with umbrellas in hand!  This church spire is directly across from our hotel.
 
Our first stop was Linderhof Schloss (castle) about 18 km from the city.  Another of King Ludwig II castles, this is the only one that was actually completed.  Designed as a hunting lodge, it is quite small compared to his plans for Herrenchiemsee that we saw several days ago.  The grounds, however, are splendor itself! 
 
 
Behind the castle,  you can see what appears to be a tunnel, which is actually the water source for the cascade that runs down the hill, under the castle and provides both the water and the pressure for the fountain in the front of the castle!
 
 
The gardens are still gorgeous - they must use hardy plants!

 
 
 
Here the castle is below with the gardens in the foreground, from where the prior picture was taken.  In the background, you can see the snow on the Alps.  We are at about 3,000 ft elevation and a temperature of about 45 degrees - above 6,000 ft the moisture was snow!

 
This is a view from the top (behind) the castle with the formal gardens opposite.  The pool in the foreground is where the water accumlates and is held until release that drives the fountain at the front of the castle.
 
Close to this location above the castle, is the largest man-man grotto in Europe.  It was blasted into the side of the mountain and then the surrounds were rebuilt in blend into the hillside.  The grotto allowed Ludwig to listen to his beloved opera with scenes painted onto large canvas displays. 
 
 
The area in the upper left in blue lighting is one of two protected venues from which he could view the proceedings, or there was a shell boat in the middle of the man-made lake where he could recline while his servants rowed him around the lake. 

 
You can see the water being released into the grotto, with the operatic canvas in the background.  As I said, it was 45 degrees today and it is only mid-September.  So, in the winter, the grotto had five fireplaces and methods to transfer that heat to the lake, such that King Ludwig could swim throughout the year in his own private grotto!
 
As with Herrenchiemsee, pictures are not allowed within the castle walls.  We have purchased books showing the unbelieveable opulence, which I will scan and include when we return home in a week or two. 
 
From Linderhof, we headed off to Oberammergau, which was only about 8 km away.  Oberammergau is the site of the Passion Play, which is performed every ten years at the beginning of each decade.  As well, it is a beautiful alpine city with extremely creative wood carvers.
 
We arrived just as the church bells chimed 1:00p, just as in Salzburg & Partenkirschen.  So, first was to identify our choice of location for lunch!
 
 
So, in keeping with our theme -- it was another German bier, this on Hasen Brau!


And a perfect complement - Bratwurst & Pomme Frittes
 

 
The artwork on the buildings is absolutely breathtaking -- even with overcast skies!

 
Here is a local Inn - and folks with the ever-present umbrella!

 
This is the entry way for the PassionPlay.  The theatre itself is actually open at the rear of the facility.  Unfortunately, there is only one tour per day @ 11a, so we will save that for another trip, where perhaps we'll time it with an actually presentation some decade!

 
We thought the artwork on the front of the building was especially remarkable!

 
On our way out of town, we were able to find St. Peter & Paul Church. 
 
So, it is now 7:00p and we are off to find a light bite here in Partenkirschen!  And a delightful little place we found!   Just a few minute walk to another hotel - where Bill had liver dumpling soup while I enjoyed pumpkin soup w/sherry!  Then a shared sausage salad, which was a delightful blend of three of my favorite things -- bologna, cucumbers & onions and cheese in a vinegar broth!
 
A return to our lovely tavern for a night cap - and the day is complete!   Gute Nacht!
 
 

1 comment:

  1. This is so wonderful! I feel like I'm there with you all!! Looks like you both are having a marvelous time!!

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